Musings of an old Dilliwalla

Delhi is a city that has welcomed friends and foes with open arms. A city where I have grown up witnessing the best culture, mannerisms and heritage. A city that boasts of its stories of brotherhood. Ask any second or third generation Dilliwalla about the Delhi they have seen, and pat comes the reply – the city that celebrated Id with as much fervour as Diwali, where adab was a piece of jewellery every Dilliwalla wore with pride. I remember as kids, we would walk down to India Gate late at night to savour an ice cream without any fear. Evening drives meant so much fun as the old Fiat sailed through the spacious roads of Lutyens Delhi.

Sadly, over the years, Delhi is losing its sheen that made it the jewel in the crown called India. While it has become the epicentre of forever happening political eruptions, the culture has also been cruelly eroded.

Flamboyant first generation billionaires with strong political connections, zooming SUVs with loud, thumping music, zero patience on roads, abusive language, intolerance at its best, licensed guns looking for petty excuses to prove their mantle, crowds outnumbering the capacity almost everywhere, women security at its worst…the list is endless and the hearts of Delhites like me bleed as we see our city succumbing to cultural pollution.

Who does it or who instigates doesn’t matter anymore. People who stay here are part of the family and as family members, we all ought to take onus. It hurts to see the bad impressions the city holds with people everywhere, of being polluted, rash and unsafe. Who makes it unsafe? It’s the people among us. Everyone is in a race to be ahead, and in that race, we often miss the basics – if we want peace, we gotta live in harmony, else the whole system goes crackling. For, when there is dispute amongst the family members, the neighbours enjoy the show!

Disappointed by the increasing cultural pollution in Delhi, I have often been tempted to move to greener pastures. However, to avoid is to be an escapist. I remember a scene from the movie Rang De Basanti, where a determined Madhavan tells his dejected friends that it is easy to criticise and abandon the house. But, it calls for courage and responsibility to clean up our house. Being citizens of Delhi, it is our responsibility to remove the tarnish and give it a cultural face lift.

When Delhites visiting elsewhere can follow the rules, why dirty our own house? Let the beasts be chained behind and let the responsible citizen in us take charge. Winning is not about outnumbering or outshining, it’s about bringing a smile on faces. Enough of litter in our culture, its time Dilliwallas do the cleanup act!

Drama is not uncommon to the common people of Delhi!

 “Get over Kingdom of dreams’ Nautanki Mahal”…for Nautanki is here!” I wondered as I walked down this chilly raining morning out of an overcrowded metro station. I thanked God, having survived a near stampede situation. But drama in Delhi is as common as the crowded metro that comes every now and then but leaves soon, before you can take some action.

Having spent three decades in Delhi, I understand the music Dilliwallas face every January. While the world enjoys the grandeur of Republic Day parade every year, for us, the tough preparations begin long before.

Any venture near Lutyens Delhi is a complete no no, for one may be welcomed by surprised route diversions, route closures and police barriers. Scanning the newspaper or internet for traffic advisory can make things better. However, if daily route asks you to commute via CP/India Gate, the week before and after republic day can end up being the most trying days of the year.

Unfortunately for me, school and college were located near Lutyens Delhi. So, come what may, it was an ordeal I had to go through every year. Then came metro, and my bad memories of traffic diversion were swept with a gush of wind!

However, my ugly memories paid an unfriendly visit this morning as I left home for work. We live in a country where common man has a say “only before the polling day”. The day poll results come, common man’s say becomes uncommon as the politicos smartly eclipse our concerns with a coat of their ambitions. We had a gentleman fighting this morning for welfare of the common man whereas hundreds of common men (and women) were helplessly harassed by the Delhi chill and disrupted metro services. And as if that wasn’t enough, the rain Gods decided to play their prank.

While some people feel these are teething troubles that come in the way of the big revolution, I decided to go back to the basics. The essence of any revolt is to safeguard the interests of the common people. But when the passion to execute a plan takes over, the basic essence is forgotten by many. Then the first thing butchered for the platter is the interest of the common man. This was evident by the live masala coverage today that got channels great food for TRPs!

I heard the revolution was partly to bring up the cause of women safety. Great gesture worthy of praise. But can a melodramatic revolt do something that Delhi hasn’t seen changed over many years – the male outlook towards women? As hundreds of men and women jostled (in a near stampede situation) at most metro stations this morning, many common men got great opportunity to come unwelcoming close to many common women. If a revolt has to happen, let there be something to change the way most men look at women here-as helpless objects of desire. Instead of disrupting the lives of normal people, let the revolt disrupt the lives of countless men who roam around unchained on streets of Delhi at night (when our revolutionaries are asleep!) looking for a female prey. Let there be something that make the bad elements think twice in fear before thinking of the word ‘rape’. An eye for an eye or some strict law, as they have in some countries in the middle east.

Unless that doesn’t happen, such TRP attracting revolts would just add up to glorify the career paths of some politicos and breaking news for the media.

And the common man, if asked would still want his common life, simple and peaceful, sans any disruptions or diversions.

 

Common man, searching the "uncommon" peace

An eye for an eye

The newspapers had it mentioned all across. TV channels were overflowing with the story of innocent, brave Nirbhaya. “Has anything changed for us?” I grumbled, crumpling the newspaper into a ball. Mom was quick to catch the ball. “Why do you wait for things to happen?”.

“Hmmm”…I said and rushed for work.

Fully clad in a salwar kameez, with the dupatta right catering to the modesty factor, I rushed towards the metro. “Be draped in curtains, avoid passes…what the…. Does it help?” I was grumbling as I managed the dupatta against the sudden strong wind.

I was just in time to grab the last coach. Going for women’s coach would have meant late entry in office. I stuffed myself in the coach, overflowing with people. The doors closed and the stench of cheap aftershaves and sweaty underarms made for a heady cocktail. As my olfactory senses cursed me for missing the ladies coach, something touched my derriere. I gave a slight turn thinking it would be a crowd and was lost in my thoughts when I felt it again. I turned around and saw his face.

The hand went back to his hair. He pretended to look elsewhere. I was enraged when after few seconds, I caught him looking at me. Shameless smile covered his face, as if he was a lion and me the deer. Avoid, ignore, play safe - was what I had learnt all these years. “Did it ever help?” I wondered.

The doors of the metro opened. A thought flashed my mind, “Go out and board the women’s coach in the next metro.” 2 minutes and the door closed. The decision had been made, to take things under own stride.

The next moment, I was staring him eye to eye, waiting for his next pass, waiting to strike my blow on his sweaty face. The tigress stare worked. The doors opened and he was gone.

Eve teasers beware…this time there will be an eye for an eye.

This post is a part of Write Over the Weekend, an initiative for Indian Bloggers by BlogAdda.

Ladoo Gopaal!

What do I say about my favorite laddoos….the soft, yellow balls of sheer pleasure that just melt in mouth! Any foodie would vouch for it! Even our Ganpati Bappa….it’s his favorite sweet after all…he loves it when devotees offer modaks (ladoos) during Ganpathi to please him & returns their prayers with blessings & happiness! Even Lord Krishna couldn’t resist himself the temptation of this sweet…his baby form is popularly known as laddoo gopaal among devotees!

Laddoo or laaadoo as we call it is a sweet of good times…a sweet that when shared spreads  happiness and foster brotherhood  irrespective of caste or class.  No matter who voted for whom, when election results are out, no one minds popping up laddoos distributed by the winners.  No Independence day function goes complete without laddoos. As kids we used to get up early & rush to sing patriotic songs in our colony’s Independence Day function…just to get an extra laddoo or two distributed after flag hosting. The greed was carried even to the temples where I used to demand the bigger laddoo from panditjee, as if it is the birthright of every child…and with a humble smile, he used to oblige me while my mother used to have this “ye kab sudhreygee”look!

Our relation with laddoos begins the day we come into this world! Laddoos are distributed among family and friends upon the arrival of a laddoo gopaal (little one…since children are an incarnation of God) in the family. I have lost count now of the number of times I have stuffed 2-3 laddoos at a go in my brother’s mouth during Rakhi. It’s a usual sight to see parents distributing laddoos among neighbours when their little champ passes with flying colors (pappu pass ho gayaaa!)…It’s a treat to the eyes when fans of all castes & creeds for once come together to share their pride with laddoos, dhol beats & firecrackers when India wins that cricket series!

Since our auspicious Lord Ganesha is roped in whenever a new chapter of our life begins, how can laddoos be left behind? Whether it’s buying of a car, a new house or beginning of new business, laddoos are everywhere!  In the big fat Indian weddings, ladoos are as important as priest … ladoos are a must in the bhaji (or assortment of sweets distributed to relatives and friends during weddings). Bride and groom to be are treated with laddoos when the match is fixed (ooops…finalized) is to bring sweetness in their relationship. A young bride bringing with her laddoos to the family is considered a sign of her bringing happiness, prosperity and sweetness in the family.  Laddoos are given to a new mother to recuperate with the physical strain of bearing a child. Any puja, any havan goes incomplete without laddoos. No matter how strict a mother is, her little one stealing laddoos from the home temple is overlooked as it’ s the family’s laddoo gopaal satiating his taste buds!

Who can forget the aroma from box of laddoos our loving mothers send to our hostels! The til (sesame) laddoos prepared by my mother in law during winters is one of the hardest things  to resist & I fulfill my duty as a loving bhabhi by secretly doling out special servings to my brother in law, much more than his budgeted per day limit. Whatever be the occasion…a laddoo stuffed in mouth is sure shot mantra to bring a smile on your face…try eating a laddoo without smiling!

Though in India, laddoos come in many varieties, (gramflour, coconut, sesame, edible gum, moong daal), all are progenies of the traditional motichoor laddoos, also known as boondi ladoos. Made of Bengal gram, sugar, nuts and desi ghee (clarified butter), perfecting the art of ladoos is not everyone’s cup of tea. You will find that the flavor of laddoos will change at every shop; each giving its signature flavor to the age old recipe.  Laddoos prepared in villages are extra big and extra sweet (just like the people there!)… You and I might not be able to manage more than one laddoo. But it’s a treat for villagers who, used to strenuous physical activity gobble up anywhere between 20-50 ladoos in a single session! As warriors sing their tales of triumph, women at village feasts are often seen sharing counts of ladoos they had…competing with their friends…a’ la Hot dog eating contests!

I’ve been fortunate to savour some of the best ladoos in town. During my sister’s wedding, special Halwai was arranged from the walled city to prepare ladoos to be sent to the groom’s family. My wedding bhaji had a generous quantity of boondi and besan ladoos which I even carried to my honeymoon, much to the amusement of my husband! Such is a Dilliwalla’s love for ladoos.

In Delhi, it’s not hard to find ladoos to suit your palate. Evergreen Sweet House at Green Park market serve awesome motichoor  ladoos. Found by a skilled halwai, Late Shri Radha Krishan Chopra  in 1961, Evergreen Sweet House export to USA, UK, Italy, Germany, Kuwait, Australia & The Kiwiland! Once on a visit to Goa, our host asked us specially to bring laddoos from Evergreen and the staff at counter swelled with pride when I told him their soaring popularity.

Evergreen Sweet House,

S-29 & 30, Green Park Main Market, New Delhi – 110016.

Phone: + 91-11-26521615/ 26514642

The Haldiram’s & Bikanervala’s too do a decent job at dishing out ladoos. However, the taste may vary from outlet to outlet. After all, every second sweet shop in Delhi is christened Bikanervala !

Any visit to Bengali market goes incomplete without a visit to Nathu’s sweets there. After gorging on their very famous chhole bhature, my taste buds just want their laddoos. They serve really and sumptuous ladoos and it requires a lot of effort to control your temptation beyond 1 laddoo.

Nathu's sweets
23,24,25 Bengali market
New Delhi-110001 

Almost every Army person coming back from Jalandhar is seen carrying laddoos from lovely sweets (popularly known as “lovely ke laddoos”) for his family and friends back home. I recently checked their website & u can order ladoos online for 230.00 (a little less than $5.00). I am yet to savour them but have heard so much and really look forward to.

www.lovelysweets.com

On an official trip to Kanpur, my husband once called me and said he is getting Thaggu ke ladoos….i found the name quite unreal and initially dismissed as a joke but found that “Thaggu ke laddu” really do exist! The name Thaggu, or the hindi word for thief, really steals hearts of those who savour them. The shop is so confident about their ladoos that the packaging mentions “Aisa koi saga nahi jisko humney thaga  nahi”….Made from cashews, semolina, nuts, almond etc the ladoos really will steal your hearts away. I loved their special ladoos & doodh peda…a must try. The shopkeeper tells with immense pride about Abhishek Bacchhan having shot the move “Bunty aur babli” there. The owner Mr. During the Ash-Abhishek wedding, the owner of thaggu ke laddu Mr Prakash Pandey even carried a hamper of laddoos prepared specially for the wedding.

Thaggu ke laddu

Outlets at Bada Chauraha, Kakadeo, Swaroop Nagar, Canal Express Road & Govind Nagar in Kanpur

Tewari Bros. at Connaught Place are famous for their desi ghee motichoor ladoos….it’s a small sleepy shop with neat stacks of sweets. The smell of pure ghee surrounds the air the moment you enter the shop.  Though heavier on the calorie side, the laddoos are so soft and juicy that they break if not handled with care. Their ladoos just melt in your mouth and the aroma of pure ghee leaves you with a royal feeling.

Tewari Bros

73, Municipal Market, Connaught Place, Delhi, 110001

Phone: (+91) 11 23411765, (+91) 11 23413313

With so many options to choose from, Delhi is truly a delight for the sweet buds…and the amazing variety of laddoos here will have you asking for more! So, go, take your pic!!!

P.S. A big thanks to Tewari bros. whose laddoos inspired me to share my laddoo thoughts with you. A little heavy inspiration though, as I have almost finished the 250g box and will have to sweat it out in the gym for days to burn it out! But the calories are worth it…a must try whenever you visit Delhi! 

Wake Up

Last week I was to make a presentation on Argentina Peso crisis. The more I read about it, the more I thanked God I am born in India. I was glad that unlike the super corrupt system of Argentina, where everybody from corporate to government was abusing people’s interests, we have RBI that make sure the finance ministry always doesn’t have its way. I was glad I was not born in Europe, where every second country is suffocating with debt & gasping for bailouts. I was glad I was not born in a country where Malala was shot for exercising her right to education. I was glad I was not born in a country where Bibi Aisha’s nose was chopped off for escaping an abusive marriage.

The night of Sunday, December 16, 2012 proved me wrong…

In my own city that I am so proud of (read my blog label: Dilli Meri Jaan), a 23 year old was brutally gangraped. Her ordeal didn’t end there. She was so badly abused that she suffered permanent damage to her small intestine. Even if she survives, she would never be able to enjoy a normal meal like us since her intestine has been removed. What was her fault? That she was a girl & the assaulters thought they were men enough to teach her a lesson this way. Few dirty fish contaminate the entire pond. Unfortunately, here, the fish are “many”. If you think rape & lewd comments are the only abuses we women need to watch out for, take a second thought. 

Born and brought up in Delhi, I have seen rampant eve teasing since childhood. Be it the “acting fresh” in public transport or passing lewd comments. Sometimes it’s a passive torture. Mere hungry looks suffice for a “visual rape” even if from a distance. Since this isn’t confined to a particular area or a particular set of people, girls are taught to be careful, take precautions, come back home timely & take a male along if out in late hours. But that’s what the hapless girl did on that unfortunate night. She was in a public transport, with a male friend and 9pm isn’t that odd a time for a city that parties all night.

Much has been said and done about the issue. The agitating crowds at Rajpath shouting “we want justice”, government’s futile attempts to suppress the uprising, the press conferences, the lathicharge, a press conference and again a lathicharge.

From the ill fated night to today’s lathicharge, it is the common junta who’s suffering. The other day a minister was heard empathizing with the people saying he too has 3 daughters. How many times have they travelled in a public transport without security?

Delhi is said be “dilwaalon ki dilli”. Be it Anna, baba ramdev or any other movement, the people have always come out in support, undeterred by lathicharge. Why isn’t it payback time now. Instead of just issuing emotional statements, why can’t the celebs and leaders come out with the people in the cold and contribute to the non violent movement?  I’m sure, the police would think twice before raising their lathi on a celeb…

Me wonderzzzz….

Soya rolls on the street

I’m a born Brahmin, brought up in a house where garlic was a forbidden item; married in a family where eggs are considered something that destroys your dharma, or religion! So, u can well understand my exposure to carnivorous stuff. The sight of tandoori chicken or kebabs arranged on skewers fills my olfactory senses with all sorts of foul smells.

Lately, I have been spotting many outlets with the usual stuff (looks like chicken parts) hung on skewers. But wait! the signboard mentions 100% vegetarian! Wow! My friends tell me soya tastes almost like non veg. I decided to give these a try.

Mom in law was super skeptical. The sight of the usual things on skewers made her cover her nose in anticipation. I reassured her it’s just soya, the one we cook at home.

There were no chairs, no classy crockery, yet I was amazed to see the crowd which grew as dinnertime neared. Just six round tables with a pack off tissue papers on each. The waiters wore no uniforms but could be easily identified as the busiest lot, hopping between the tables, cash counter and kitchen, making a mental note of the order sans any order pad. There are no errors; the right dish goes to the right table, or the car.

There is something about street food. The outlet opens by 7 each evening and the daily footfalls might give any restaurant an inferiority complex. Delhiites can go to anywhere as long as the food suits their palate. Its futile waiting for table there, so people mostly enjoy their treats in their cars.

We managed to get a corner table, below a peepal tree and the waiter hurriedly kept a menu card and left. Mom in law and I felt like total amateurs. So many treats to offer out of the simple soya!

Hubby ordered Soya rolls while we went for the malai soya chaap with rumaalis.  Succulent soya wrapped around ice cream sticks, marinated in a blend of spices, immersed in creamy gravy, here was malai chaap. I told mom in law, “this is what you looked at covered your nose, I am sure you wouldn’t want to have this!” She smiled and pounced on the treat accompanied by unlimited onion rings and green chutney!

But I went gaga over their rolls! You see I’m a rolls afficionado. From the street side corner below my office to wah ji wah, soya express, I try ‘em all. But this was simple and yummy, no greasy sauce, no oil dripping out of the rolls. I enjoyed the chemistry between soya marinated and roasted to perfection, and soft, warm, thin layer of the wrap. I could actually concentrate on the original taste of soya without irritated by the oily, greasy sauce. To add to this, the onion rings and chutney kept me asking for more and the waiters obliged with a smile every time. At 120 bucks, the treat was just not bad! One of the best soya rolls I had so far!

We have become regulars now, though now, we too enjoy the rolls in the comfort of our car. The Amritsar chaap corner is definitely must a visit for those who love rolls sans the greasy sauce and oil! 

Streetfood fest@ Sitaram Bazaar

I just love October…the soft chill in the air, festivity, colors, sparkle, joy, excitement, shopping and my favorite…food! Delhites need an excuse to satiate their taste buds with the yummiest treats the city has to offer. Since I am not much into fasting, navratras for me are nine days of sheer gastronomical paradise. I get to savor the best of vrat (hindi word for fasting) and non vrat food. From the bhog at Durga Puja pandals to the specially designed navratra thalis at restaurants, it’s my yearly ritual to have them all. 

One event I really look forward to every year is the baadaa at Sitaram Bazaar, Old Delhi. Sitaram bazaar is Old Delhi’s chaat capital and when they come up with something special, it’s a must have. I first went there 4 years ago and since then there has been no looking back.

Baadaa is a midnight food festival (mela) organized during navratras and goes on till Dussehra. Nine days of festivities, late night melas and lot of joy. Sitaram Bazar, during the day is swarming with people. However, for the baadaa, shops close early and makeshift food counters are setup. 

The moment I stepped out of the Chawri Bazzar, the glitter, lights and the aroma of delhi’s delicacies surrounded me. Wow! I couldn’t wait to get started!

Chawri Bazar Metro Station

In front of Sitaram Bazar

The lights!

Making our way through the crowded lane and the umpteen rickshaws, we first reached New Ashoka sweets. An otherwise famous shop of Sitaram Bazaar, they serve special delicaies for navratras. All shops serve 100% vegetarian food and most will also dole out dishes you can have while fasting. In fact, I was surprised to see every second counter serving vegetarian seekh kebabs.  The shop was crowded as if it was serving food for free. The 20 min wait for my order was a torture as I could see (and worse, smell the amazing aroma) the delicacies people enjoyed and my mouth watered and watered. But the wait was worth it. Kebabs made of cottage cheese, served in spicy gravy, served with onion lacchha (salad) and rumaali rotis, made to perfection. I was amazed how, despite the mad rush, the order taker made no mistakes in delivery while the rumali roti guy dished out roti after roti within minutes. 

People waiting for their order

Veg Kathi kebabs

The rumali roti expert

Rumali Roti

Veg Kathi Kebab with Rumali roti & onion lachha

Next in line was aloo paneer tikki…flattened balls of potato and cottage cheese, spiced up and shallow fried till crispy. Tikkis have to be cooked on the right flame for the right time else the result gets messed up. Maybe thats why, people didnt seem that patient to wait and the stall was relatively less crowded. But patience pays.The guy served the tikkis with generous helpings of tamarind and mint chutney and … My mouth still waters as I write. Crispy, hot, spiced up, with dash of chutneys, I loved the tikkis.

Aloo tikki and chaat

I had heard so much about Kanji vadas from my mother in law, so the moment I spotted the cart selling them; I was after my hubby to try them out. Kanji vadas are pakodas (fritters) served soaked in spicy water (kanji) and is a must try whenever u come to Delhi. The pakodas could have been softer and fresh but the spicy water made up up for them.

Kanji vada

Once a week, I have a date with Chhole Kulchey, but the ones I had here were very different than the others. In a hurry, the guy, just sprinkled lots of masala on the chholey and sprinkled lemon juice without bothering to mix it up. But, voila, what a treat it was! Every bite a super spicy affair! My eyes were watery (tears of gastronomical joy!) and I was loving it.

Chhole Kulche

I also tried the moong dal chilla, pancakes made of moong dal, stuffed with coriander, cottage cheese and served with chutney. Didn’t find much difference between them and the usual stuff I get to eat at every second wedding.

Moong dal chilla

People waiting for their chilla

Right next to the chilla counter stood Om prakash Kulfi waala. The ice creams at Sitaram Bazzar are prepared in unique manually operated ice cream makers in front of your eyes, from real fruits, no added flavors. You won’t get this stuff anywhere else. A must try. I tried the mango and pomegranate ice cream and they just melted in my mouth! One of the best ice creams I ever had.

Kulfi cart

Manual ice cream machine

Mango ice cream

Pomegranate ice cream

I was about to leave when I spotted this cart with nankhatai. At Rs 20 for 100g, I got the freshest, warmest and softest nankhatais that only Old delhi can offer. I quickly gobbled few and got some packed for my tid bit treats at home.

Nankhatais

It was time to leave. The crowd was growing every minute and I was told this would be so till 1-2 at night. The liveliness was infectious and I didn’t want to leave. I filled the aroma one last time and hurried to grab the metro…

Some more pics from the fest...

Balloon seller

Masks popular with kids during Dussehra

Masks, bow and arrows 

Servers in traditional attire

Rickshaw carrying water jugs back from shops

   

Chuski shop

The joy of eating

Outside New Delhi Railway Station